Tea: A Tool for Savoring Time [Part 1]

"JINSUI," a creation born from a pottery with over 150 years of history in Tokoname City, Aichi Prefecture, tells a story that mirrors the changing times through its beloved teapots (kyusu). We delve into the secrets of these vessels - both familiar yet unknown - and explore the passionate craftsmanship embodied in their gentle hues.

Tokoname ware is a traditional Japanese pottery produced in Tokoname City, Aichi Prefecture, with a history said to date back to the Heian period (794-1185). Renowned as one of the "Six Ancient Kilns of Japan," alongside Seto, Echizen, Shigaraki, Tanba, and Bizen, Tokoname was a hub for the production of everyday tableware such as teacups and plates. While large jars, pots, and other essential household items were also produced, the rustic charm of Tokoname ware found favor among literati and tea masters during the Edo period (1603-1868), leading to its flourishing. In the Meiji era (1868-1912), artists like Yamada Jozan I (1868-1942) emerged, further popularizing Tokoname ware, from artistic tea utensils to the kyusu cherished by ordinary people.

The distinctive reddish-brown kyusu, made from fine local clay, are known as Shudei kyusu. Their unglazed, porous nature is said to absorb impurities, mellowing the taste of the tea brewed within. This characteristic established Tokoname's reputation as a leading kyusu brand. Furthermore, during the Meiji era, Tokoname also flourished as a production center for industrial products like architectural tiles and earthenware pipes, significantly contributing to Japan's architecture and civil engineering.

About 50 different molds are neatly arranged in a corner of the factory.

The traditional teapots carry a nostalgic air about them.

Many female artisans work here in a supportive environment.

JINSUI Co., Ltd., the company behind the modern kyusu brand "JINSUI," is a pottery studio that carries on the masterful techniques of Tokoname ware. While their kiln records trace back to around 1850, during the Edo period, the history of this family, which has supported the local industry, is even older, a testament to the region's enduring contribution to Japanese craftsmanship. Their 150-year history is not only a legacy of Japanese kyusu and tea utensil traditions but also a testament to their pursuit of quality and design. According to Yusuke Watanabe, the current representative, the criteria for a good kyusu boil down to "ease of use and the ability to brew delicious tea," but these standards evolve with time.

"For instance, the handles of older kyusu were attached more vertically than they are today. In the past, when people brewed tea while sitting in the seiza(the traditional formal sitting posture) position on tatami mats, this design was easier to hold and pour from. Similarly, the ease of holding the lid when adding tea leaves, the balance when pouring, and the fit of the lid were all readily apparent qualities. In particular, the ability of the kyusu to cleanly cut off the flow of tea when the wrist is turned after pouring, known as cha-gire, is a function we value highly. In an era when brewing tea in a kyusu was commonplace, many people could discern these qualities and differences. We believe that our growth has been fueled by this discerning scrutiny, and we have been chosen by customers because of our constant pursuit of excellence. This stance remains unchanged even in the diverse lifestyles of today."

The teapots are crafted using the traditional "gaba-ikomi" technique of plaster molding.

Each piece is meticulously finished through delicate handwork by skilled artisans.

A workshop that embodies dedication to quality in supporting Japanese tradition.

While it's true that drinking tea from plastic bottles is now the norm, the techniques for crafting kyusu have steadily evolved.

Take, for instance, the internal tea strainer. Known as 'Ceramesh,' this technology involves using a ceramic formed into a mesh, which is then affixed with a uniquely blended clay called nota, creating a seamless, integrated appearance. By using the same material as the body of the kyusu, the temperature of the hot water is kept constant, resulting in, as Watanabe confidently states, "a taste far superior to that of stainless steel strainers."

Another essential element of a good kyusu is the airtight seal between the lid and the body, achieved through a process called futa-suri. By applying a polishing compound between the lid and body and carefully rubbing them together, their surfaces become intimately acquainted, creating a perfect seal. As the lid and body are ground using a specially developed machine, there's a moment when the sound seems to fade away completely. This delicate process not only enhances the flavor of the tea by allowing it to steam properly but also significantly improves both stability and handling when pouring. Each lid and body are so precisely matched that they won't fit perfectly if used with a different kyusu.

Carefully applying the Ceramesh. The nota compound's formula remains a trade secret.

The cha-gire, or the clean break of the tea flow, is tested along with the futa-suri process.

As the lid and body are gently joined, a subtle change in sound indicates a perfect fit.

Were these techniques conceived solely by Mr. Watanabe?

"That's a difficult question. It's perhaps akin to the techniques involved in making shirts or trousers. While the basic patterns and technical foundations are inherited as tradition, each maker introduces subtle changes and refinements. Sometimes, what begins as a functional element becomes established as a design feature, and at other times, advancements in machinery or materials lead to updates. For example, while I learned the mechanism of Ceramesh from a senior artisan, I sought out and commissioned the machine myself. The same goes for futa-suri. Every kyusu maker in Tokoname practices it, but each has their own subtle variations. Kyusu are, in essence, everyday tools, so their universal functions, such as taste and usability, are readily apparent to customers. Therefore, if more people desire to drink delicious tea, good kyusu will naturally sell well. That's the kind of kyusu brand I aspire to create."

The spout, critical to achieving a clean cha-gire, is meticulously shaped by hand.

This space, with its well-worn tools, is a true artisan's sanctuary.

Nothing is wasted here; even the smallest shavings are reused.

I once had a guest from overseas who expressed their disappointment when I served them coffee, saying they had been looking forward to tea brewed in a kyusu. I panicked because I didn't own one. As a child, I often saw my grandmother brewing tea in a kyusu, but it's a sight that has become rare. Perhaps that unique, leisurely time was what enriched our lives. The word kyusu itself, meaning "to use in response to an urgent need," suggests that its origin lies in its ease of use.* If convenience is a luxury, then taking the time to brew tea slowly is also a luxurious choice. If you find yourself drawn to a kyusu, it might be a sign to slow down your life a little.

* There are various theories regarding the origin of the word kyusu. Some suggest it derives from the Chinese qifus, a vessel used for quickly warming wine. Others posit that it evolved from the term kibisho, a small kettle used to decoct and directly pour medicinal tea, later renamed kyusu to distinguish it from a regular kettle.

One can see how perfectly the hand fits the kyusu.

Traditional kyusu had shorter handles, leading men with larger hands to hold them this way.

Tea brewed in a kyusu has a calming effect, helping one regain composure and peace of mind.